Inauguration from a Distance

Yesterday, I caught Barack Obama’s inauguration speech here in Serbia, and this morning saw his face across the front page of the local paper with fragments of the speech reprinted. We get visitors of all political stripes here at the Nomad, but I don’t think I’ve ever made a secret of my liberal leanings. Obama was my candidate, and it was wonderful to see him taking on the mantle of president.

I actually began, a year ago, rooting for Hillary Clinton, largely because of her vigorous but failed push for universal health during her husband’s first term. But as the nomination process continued I was gradually swayed to Obama’s camp.

I found a lot of that initial race distasteful—in my eyes there was a lot of obvious sexism going on. Not from Obama’s people, but from the media in general, which focused too much attention on whether or not Hillary choking up during a press conference was “crying.” It seemed to me that Hillary had to work twice as hard to be viewed in the same light as her male counterparts. So I was sympathetic to her, yet as time passed it became clear that she was losing ground because she couldn’t quite pull off the thoughtful, wise stance that Obama had perfected from the beginning. As her campaign deteriorated, she lost patience in public more often, which is something Obama could never be accused of. So my initial shift was based almost entirely on image, because only image wins elections.

Beyond image, I grew into a Obama supporter simply because started listening more to the debates and realized I agreed with most everything he said, and when he won the election I was pleased. Very pleased. Yet as I watched shots of people weeping in the streets of America, and yesterday the joyous multitudes in Washington weeping their pleasure at his nomination, I realized that, as someone living “over here,” I’m really very disconnected from the historical magnitude of the moment.

This disconnect has been part of my life for the last seven years, beginning with 9/11, which occurred a month after my arrival in Europe. The facts were plain: Something unprecedented and terrible had occurred. But emotionally, it felt as far away as the tragedies that scar many parts of the world, just bigger and set in a place that had never known such terror before. Part of my reaction was shock—I couldn’t quite get my head around it—but a lot of it had to do with the geographic distance. Little did I realize then what an effect that event would have on the world that followed.

Now, with Obama’s inauguration, I feel a double distance. There’s the geographic one, but there’s also a generational distance. For my parents’ generation, yesterday was the realization of the events that shaped their childhoods. It sheds a new light their own past, and on the towering social figures of that time, many of whom met violent ends.

Yet I know. It was a major moment in American history that I’ll be able to talk about with my daughter, something that I’m very happy to have lived through.

Whether or not his policies can live up to his rhetoric, America has already done something most of the world thought it wouldn’t pull off for generations to come. And, for today at least, we’ve probably impressed more people than we’ve pissed off. Yes, I’m pleased. I think it’s starting to sink in.

(Originally posted at the Contemporary Nomad)

Srecan Božic!

Sometimes people ask why my stories so often tie together political events and personal ones. I’m never quite sure what to answer, really, but today I realized the answer is “Because that’s just the way it is.”



We’ve been in Serbia about three weeks now, with consistently sub-freezing temperatures during the day (yesterday, we reached -10 C/14 F). As a result, we stay in a lot, no matter how bored we are, because Margo just came off a few weeks of sickness, and we don’t want a relapse.



Then today, at around 7 PM, we learned that the heating and hot water to our district of Novi Sad would be cut off at 8 PM. No one knew when it would be turned on again.



You guessed it—Russia’s Gazprom argument with the Ukraine, resulting in drastically reduced flow through its Europe-bound pipeline. Turns out Serbia is one of the countries affected.



As you can imagine, we’re pretty annoyed here, collecting all the electric heaters we can get our hands on. But where to direct our anger? At Russia, or the Ukraine? Or maybe that’s a waste of emotion, because not all of Serbia is affected, just this northern region, Vojvodina. And not all of Vojvodina either, just the areas whose heating runs off of old machines that only work with the missing type of gas.



So do we blame the local politicians who left our areas with outmoded machines? Or the politicians who never thought to save surplus gas (as forward-thinking Hungary did)? Or maybe the nationalists who are working their damndest to keep Serbia out of the EU, because of its love affair with Russia?



It might be smartest to blame the politicians in Belgrade. Because Vojvodina, ironically, is the oil-producing area of Serbia, and it sends its oil down to Belgrade, where the residents are being told they have nothing to worry about—no one down there will be going without heating on Christmas evening.



Christmas? Yes—all this has occurred on Serbian Orthodox Christmas, which explains the Serbian “Merry Christmas” in the title of this post.



Despite this annoying start to the new year, the title line holds, particularly if you’re a Serb out in the cold this Christmas evening. Srecan Božic, to you, and here’s hoping for a better rest of the year.

(Originally posted at the Contemporary Nomad)

Conceptual and Experimental



Galenson’s idea that creativity can be divided into these types—conceptual and experimental—has a number of important implications. For example, we sometimes think of late bloomers as late starters. They don’t realize they’re good at something until they’re fifty, so of course they achieve late in life. But that’s not quite right. Cézanne was painting almost as early as Picasso was. We also sometimes think of them as artists who are discovered late; the world is just slow to appreciate their gifts. In both cases, the assumption is that the prodigy and the late bloomer are fundamentally the same, and that late blooming is simply genius under conditions of market failure. What Galenson’s argument suggests is something else—that late bloomers bloom late because they simply aren’t much good until late in their careers.





Whether or not you agree with the findings, it’s a fascinating read.



I’m off to Serbia for an undefined number of weeks, so in case I don’t get another chance to post here’s wishing happy holidays and new years for you all.



French Connection

The road to France from Hungary is pretty much just one road. It changes names along the way, but most of the time you’re not turning but leaning slightly to the left and right to keep on track. So it was with us. We left St. Pölten and continued past Salzburg to enter Germany briefly before returning to Austria to head toward Switzerland. Knowing our car had been fixed by some crack Austrian mechanics, we were also filled with confidence. Arriving in France on time would be difficult, but we would make it. At least, that’s what I kept saying—American optimism, after all.

























couldn’t































wanted



Hotel Martinez











Dispatch #4

Technical Difficulties

Kevin reminded me that my “dispatches” ended rather abruptly, and I thought it best to mention that I haven’t forgotten them. Travel, and the idiosyncrasies of tourism, have been consuming my time and leaving me too fatigued to write a thing. Suffice to say, it’s been busy, as many things have gone wrong as have gone right, and right now I’m writing from La Rochelle, France, trying to figure out the right path home. I should be safely back in Budapest by the weekend, where I’ll have the leisure to recount the many reasons why, when you’ve got a 15-year-old car, you should always fly rather than drive across the continent….

(Originally posted at the Contemporary Nomad)